Secret Sewist – Why Muslins are Important

Back before I understood the importance of making muslins, which wasn’t that long ago – try May 2018, I attempted to make Love Notions Sonata. I bought the pattern when it first came out. I loved the neckline, and it was for ANY kind of woven fabrics. The bodice fit so well on everyone who tested it, that I thought it would work out for me as well. 

I never finished it… 

I don’t know if it was the fabric or the size I cut, but it did not make me feel happy to wear it. So I put it away and moved on. I would think about it every now and then, but didn’t think I could fix it. 

That is until the Secret Sewist exchange happened. Tami gifted her Ambassador team with fabric that another person picked out. The secret sewist also got to recommend patterns as well for the fabric. Here is what mine said:

Dear Anjori, I think you’d look beautiful in a Sonata (maxi length if you have enough fabric!) or a Rhapsody dress. But if you’d rather do a top, than a long sleeved Lyric peplum or Presto would be pretty too! ~Your Secret Sewist

Check the top banner for the 10% off code!

Let’s talk fabric! My secret sewist picked THE best fabric from Minerva.com. I wanted this exact fabric back in May but talked myself out of buying it. It is viscose and has a lovely drape, very soft too. Now, I not only have the fabric but it is now a beautiful dress. Thank you Tami, Tessa, and my secret sewist!

I had already made a Rhapsody and Lyric this year, so I thought this would be a good time to redeem the Sonata.

But first … muslins!

Before I dive into the muslins, lets talk about the changes to the pattern I planned to make. I kept the back skirt the same but changed the front to be box pleats. I like full flowing maxi skirts, they are just me. But I also don’t like adding volume to the waist area so box pleats work out so well. I’ve done them before here with my green sari dress and here with my LN Margot maxi dress.

I also know adding a waistband really helps define my very short torso. The trouble was that the back had an elastic casing between the bodice and the skirt. I ended up creating two casings, one between the bodice and waistband, and another between the waistband and skirt. It really worked out well, as I could use different length elastics for both to get the right fit.

The one other thing that I did a bit differently was to use two different finishings for the neckline. I lined the front to make it less see through and skip the topstiching; but didn’t want the added bulk in the back with a lining, which is why I used a bias binding.

And used French seams at the shoulders to keep it all lined up and clean.

The bodice needed three muslins and I documented everything. Well most everything. I forgot to take pictures of #2. Anyway, below are the details of my bodice muslins and what I changed when, if you are interested in all the details. 🙂

I am so glad to have finished this dress! It is classy and dressy.

Muslin #1

Made a size M all around, except I cut on the XS line to reduce the bodice height.

Results:
Front was too small at side seams, the waist dart didn’t line up with apex; the top of the back was too tight; and the sleeves were too tight 

Muslin #2

Front bodice changes:

• Side seams were changed to XL blending to L at waist.
• Side dart shorten by 3/8″
• Waist dart shorten by 3/8″ and moved 1/4″
• Added 1” to armsyce height

Back bodice changes:

• 3/8″ broad back adjustment
• Added 1” to armsyce height

Sleeve changes: added 1/2″ on sides and added 1″ armsyce height

Results:
Front fits better at side seams but there was still too much fabric near the arm. The back fit better, especially with the broad back adjustment; but still was too poofy. Slevees fit much better throughout the arm.

Muslin #3

Front bodice changes

• Pinched out extra fabric (1 1/4″) and created dart. The moved dart to side dart
• Removed 1/4″ from side seam

Back bodice changes

• Removed 1″ from center back but only at bottom, for swayback. Which means I  needed to add seam allowance to cut 2 back pieces.
• Removed 1/4″ from side seam

Sleeves: remove height 1/4″ from front cap

Results:
Better fit overall. Back was a bit less poofy, but still had a lot of fabric at center back. There was also some extra fabric around the armscye in the front.

Final Updates

Front bodice changes: Pinched out extra fabric (1 1/4″) and created dart. The moved dart to side dart

Back bodice changes: Reduced 1.5″ from center back height that blends to original height at side seams

All these changes really were a pain to do, but soooo worth it in the end. The bodice fits perfectly now. Which means I can make it again and again. Thank you again Tami, Tessa, and my secret sewist!