Did you grab your free serger tensions chart this week? Do you need help filling it out? Here’s how I did it.
First thing to note, is that it will take some time and patience to test out your serger settings. But once you get the right tensions, and get them recorded, you’ll be able to save a ton of time!
Take 4 distinct colors – I recommend matching the colors of the different thread paths. You see below, for the serger I have, the colors upper looper as blue, lower looper as red, right needle as green and left needle as yellow. Now I’m going to take spools in those four colors and feed them into the corresponding thread path.
All other settings should be default – stitch length, differential, seam width.
Most sergers come with some marking, distinguishing the recommended range of settings for each tension disc (check your manual, if you are unsure). Start from the lowest in the range for all needles and loopers.
Grab some scraps – I recommend some cotton jersey or cotton lycra – something that doesn’t slip easily isn’t too thin or thick. Be sure to have a good amount of length – at least 6″ to get a good feel for the stitches.
Serge two pieces together and see how your stitches come out.
Finally, adjust tension discs, one at a time, by 1/2 marks as needed until you get balanced stitches. You can use the below photos to help you determine what tension disc needs to be adjusted.
balanced tensions
If tensions are balanced, all four threads are nice and balanced – not too tight, not too loose.
unbalanced tensions
If tensions are unbalanced, all four threads are loose and pulling in different directions.
loose upper looper
If the upper looper is loose it will pull the upper looper thread towards the back.
tight upper looper
If the upper looper is tight, it will pull the lower looper towards the front, and the left needle thread might break.
loose lower looper
If the lower looper is loose it will pull the lower looper threads towards the front.
tight lower looper
If the lower looper is tight, it will pull the upper looper towards the back.
loose left needle
If the left needle is loose, the left thread will show loops; and when you pull the two fabric sides apart, you’ll see the left showing through.
tight left needle
If the left needle is tight, you run the risk of the needle breaking along with the thread. I don’t have a photo of the threads – but the left thread broke.
loose right needle
If the right needle is loose, the right thread will show loops on the bottom side.
tight right needle
If the right needle is tight, you run the risk of the needle and thread breaking; the thread will barely show.
conclusion
I hope this helped you work through perfecting your serger tensions. Share any tips you have in the comments! You can check out the garments I used my serger for here.
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Links and Patterns
Links and patterns mentioned in this post are listed below for your convenience.
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Thankyou for the detailed explanation. It is very helpful. I bought my first serger last summer, second-hand, and seem to have lucked out with a fairly decent machine. I replaced the needles and did a thorough clean and it seems to be working just fine. I will likely replace the knife soon because I feel it may not be as sharp as it should be. I’ve also signed myself up for a 4 day serger course at my local fabric shop which is coming up very soon. I’m looking forward to learning how to use my serger for more than just seams.
Thanks again for your post.
Paula Bildson
Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
That’s great! I’m looking to upgrade eventually but get a second hand one as well. I hope I’m lucky like you. Let me know how your serger course goes, I’m interested to know what they teach