Posted on: January 26, 2023 Posted by: Anjori Comments: 3

Did you grab your free serger tensions chart this week? Do you need help filling it out? Here’s how I did it.

First thing to note, is that it will take some time and patience to test out your serger settings. But once you get the right tensions, and get them recorded, you’ll be able to save a ton of time!

Take 4 distinct colors – I recommend matching the colors of the different thread paths. You see below, for the serger I have, the colors upper looper as blue, lower looper as red, right needle as green and left needle as yellow. Now I’m going to take spools in those four colors and feed them into the corresponding thread path.

All tension discs are set to 3 and the thread matches the color coding on the machine.

All other settings should be default – stitch length, differential, seam width.

Most sergers come with some marking, distinguishing the recommended range of settings for each tension disc (check your manual, if you are unsure). Start from the lowest in the range for all needles and loopers.

Grab some scraps – I recommend some cotton jersey or cotton lycra – something that doesn’t slip easily isn’t too thin or thick. Be sure to have a good amount of length – at least 6″ to get a good feel for the stitches.

Serge two pieces together and see how your stitches come out.

Finally, adjust tension discs, one at a time, by 1/2 marks as needed until you get balanced stitches. You can use the below photos to help you determine what tension disc needs to be adjusted.

balanced tensions

If tensions are balanced, all four threads are nice and balanced – not too tight, not too loose.

balanced threads
unbalanced tensions

If tensions are unbalanced, all four threads are loose and pulling in different directions.

unbalanced threads
loose upper looper

If the upper looper is loose it will pull the upper looper thread towards the back.

Loose upper looper
tight upper looper

If the upper looper is tight, it will pull the lower looper towards the front, and the left needle thread might break.

tight upper looper
loose lower looper

If the lower looper is loose it will pull the lower looper threads towards the front.

Loose Lower looper
tight lower looper

If the lower looper is tight, it will pull the upper looper towards the back.

tight Lower looper
loose left needle

If the left needle is loose, the left thread will show loops; and when you pull the two fabric sides apart, you’ll see the left showing through.

Loose Left Needle
tight left needle

If the left needle is tight, you run the risk of the needle breaking along with the thread. I don’t have a photo of the threads – but the left thread broke.

Tight Left Needle
loose right needle

If the right needle is loose, the right thread will show loops on the bottom side.

Loose Right Needle
tight right needle

If the right needle is tight, you run the risk of the needle and thread breaking; the thread will barely show.

Tight Right Needle
conclusion

I hope this helped you work through perfecting your serger tensions. Share any tips you have in the comments! You can check out the garments I used my serger for here.

How to support my work

A lot of time and effort goes into these posts – sewing, filming/editing videos and photos, writing the blogs – and if love the content and find it valuable to your own sewing, you can support me financially in a non-committal manner by purchasing me a ”coffee” through Ko-Fi here.  $3 gets me one cup of “coffee”. Thank you!

Pin this for later!!

Some links contained in this post may be affiliate links, which means I get a small commission if you purchase through these links and helps keep this site running. I was provided with the pattern to test it out, but all opinions are my own

Links and patterns mentioned in this post are listed below for your convenience.

3 People reacted on this

  1. Thankyou for the detailed explanation. It is very helpful. I bought my first serger last summer, second-hand, and seem to have lucked out with a fairly decent machine. I replaced the needles and did a thorough clean and it seems to be working just fine. I will likely replace the knife soon because I feel it may not be as sharp as it should be. I’ve also signed myself up for a 4 day serger course at my local fabric shop which is coming up very soon. I’m looking forward to learning how to use my serger for more than just seams.

    Thanks again for your post.

    Paula Bildson
    Oshawa, Ontario, Canada

    1. That’s great! I’m looking to upgrade eventually but get a second hand one as well. I hope I’m lucky like you. Let me know how your serger course goes, I’m interested to know what they teach

Leave a Comment