Hack a Pattern – Beginners Edition

So you want to sew something … a bit different than what you have in your pattern stash.  You found a look online and you wanna recreate it? 

Draping is an excellent way to create a look you want. However, not many have the space (financial or physical) to have dress form. Another great way to get your unique look is to have slopers fit for you; then modifying them to essentially draft a new pattern. 

So both these options a wonderful if you want to get in to the nuances of drafting/draping and such.

Buuut what if you are looking for something … easier ..  faster?

Off to our pattern stash we go!!! 

And if you’re like me, you probably own 193,289,389 patterns but have only made 10. 🤪 

The pattern

BASE PATTERN

Start with a base pattern. One that has 80-90% of the look you are going for. We’re talking work smarter, not harder, right? In this case I am using the Love Notions Girls Tempo Sundress. (USE CODE SEEN AT TOP BANNER ^^ FOR AN EXTRA 10% OFF the pattern.)

I make Lilli a birthday dress every year. Sometimes she designs it like this train dress.

Or asks for a dress she saw in a movie or in Threads Magazine, and sometimes she just wants a particular fabric and I get to pick the pattern, like this galaxy dress.  

I was a little fed up with how many times she changed her mind this year 🤪 so I asked her for a look she liked and I would surprise her with the fabrics and final dress.

PATTERN SWITCHAROOS

Back to pattern searching!! We want to look for other patterns with features you want. It could be a sleeve you want to change out, a different neckline you are going for, a skirt style you really like.

One thing to note – if you can find patterns from the same company to mash together – it will be a little easier. That said- the patterns I used are from three different companies so it is still doable.

Skirt

For the dress I was making – I wanted a half circle skirt.. one that I didn’t have to calculate myself, so I pulled out the Violette Field Threads Reese Dress. This dress is my go to pattern for half circle skirts. I made this ombre dress out of that pattern that I dyed myself! 

I measured it to the length and waist necessary; but wasn’t concerned about the waist not fitting. I could just gather the skirt just a little bit if I needed to. Be sure to let any circle skirt hang for 24 hours before hemming – Because it is cut on the bias, it will drop in certain areas and you’ll need to even it out. 

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Sleeves

The next feature I wanted to add was the sleeves. Lilli wanted puff sleeves and I remembered that the Peony Jasmine dress pattern has just the sleeve. It created the puff using elastic to gather the sleeve hem but I wanted to frame the sleeve fabric so I added a cuff to the sleeve by measuring the arm round plus 1.5” of ease and seam allowance.

Mistakes ..?

Then of course there are some design elements that you add to mask mistakes. Or is that just me? 🫣  I accidentally cut the skirt too short and had to lengthen it at least 3 inches .. what to do … oh yes, make a ruffle. Bonus that it is easier to hem, no folding up. 

PERFECTING THE DETAILS

How do you know that the elements that you are taking from different patterns are going to work all together in cohesion?

You want to add a different skirt to a bodice? Measure the waistline and compare the bodice and skirt. 

You want to add a different sleeve to the bodice? Either transfer the armscye from new pattern to the base bodice, or measure the sleeve to make sure that there is enough ease (at least 1.5” – 2”, more if you are making puff sleeves).  

Wanted to change the neckline? Measure the neckline for the new length of bias binding or create your own facing.

And of course, when in doubt. Make a muslin! Those test fabrics will show you where you need to change things, how you need to change things, how things are going to be constructed. 

Now .. I did not talk about pants. Pants are a little different. I haven’t done too much hacking with them. Mostly length changes whether they are being made into shorts from a pants leg or lengthening shorts into capris or pants; therefore I can’t really talk to what kind of changes you would need to make there. 

However, if you are making changes to pants, make a muslin. This is especially important when you are changing the fit, like adding pleats or adding in elastic to the waistband. The best bet is by making a quick pair of shorts and test out all the fitting issues that way.

The fabric

This gorgeous fairy and butterfly fabric is by Riley Blake, I bought from Seweird was a dream to sew with. It washes well too. I don’t need to iron it and there is a nice weight to it. The solid blue is a cotton poplin also by Riley Blake.  

The modifications

I added about an inch to the neckline, plus adding the ruffles to the front neck. 

And of course inseam pockets, because POCKETS. 

Sizing

I made a size 6 but graded to size 4 at the waist for the Tempo bodice. And I used the elasticated back option instead of shirring. I was able to pull different elastics to different lengths for a perfect fit.

To say the dress is a hit is an understatement! Lilli loooves it!

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