Finally, Woven Pants

I’ve been afraid of making pants. Especially woven ones. Yes, I made jeans, but it was in a workshop. I have also made Love Notions Sabrina Slims Jan 2020 and they required quite a bit of fitting. So I’ve been avoiding making pants since then.

But the home life of this past year and half has been hard on the pants I do own. So having to replace items in my wardrobe is a good reason to force myself to get to it!

The Love Notions Allegros are a good starting point. They are loose fitting, elastic waist and drawstring. There is an option for elasticated bottom, like joggers, or straight cut. I opted for the straight.

The Allegro pattern is full of options, you can make pants, shorts, or even a skirt. Each view has two versions – for a total of 6 different patterns in one. And it’s on sale today only for just $5! Such a steal! Use code BEE10 for an extra 10% off your purchase

Picking a size

Back to making pants… Having an old pair helped with the sizing, especially where I wanted it to sit and crotch length.

I cut a size 16 at the waist, graded to 22 at my thighs and down to 18 below the knee. My fabric had zero stretch and I wanted comfortable pants. So I made sure to give some extra ease.

Fabric

I got some medium weight, navy blue linen last year during a Christmas sale at Metro Textiles. Its a bit stiff, but I’m hoping it will soften with time. It has more of an open weave, so it’s see through. Not wanting to deal with what to wear under my pants or having tops long enough to cover my bottom, I lined it. But only to mid thigh, because I want to keep the natural flow of linen. I used a black satin fabric I have had for ages.

Prepping the fabric required overlocking all pieces. I know many say that it increases bulk at the seams. But it allows for easier alterations, as you don’t have to remove overlocker stitches to make adjustments. So I’m going to stick to this method.

Pants Fitting and Mistakes

From the jeans workshop, taught by Heather Lou from Closet Core Patterns, step one was to cut out the pieces and baste it all together. An extra annoying step for sure but oh so helpful. I could see the front looked baggy, and the back wasn’t too bad.

Of course, one has to slow down enough to decipher the changes to the prototype. I did no such thing and carried on finishing the pants. Once done, realized the crotch was too big. I had even topstitched the inseam. 🤦🏻‍♀️ Hello seam ripper! 

I reduced the crotch (both front and back) by 1.5″ and tapered it into the inseam 7″ down. Much.better.fit. I was even able to finagle the topstitching. 

Another problem I found AFTER I had finished the pants, the first time around was the pocket opening were too long. I probably missed a step telling me some notch I  should have sewn to. It was an easy enough fix – sewed the pocket closed 5″ up. 

Kept the hem 2″ wide for some nice structure. I might do a split hem next time with a cropped length. I might try and increase the calf size too, sitting down is not uncomfortable, but I like looser fits.  

These pants are so versatile. I can wear them with my Love Notions Cadence.

I normally don’t tuck in shirts but the Love Notions La Bella Donna works in very nicely this way.

Don’t forget the new Ballad Blouse from Love Notions, that works perfectly with the Allegros.

And for winter and chillier times, the Whistler is a great option.

I even tried it with my kurta, I made a couple years ago. Might be my favorite version!

Overall, happy with the make and pattern. I want to try it again with the changes and in a knit. Maybe mid summer. Off to do some birthday girl sewing, someone is turning the big 6 😱 In the meantime, you can pick up the Allegro on sale and make some pants of your own, you can do it!