Knit Fabrics, Woven Patterns

Do you sew for special occasions or everyday life? Or do you sew a mix? I am going to show you how I turned a special shirt pattern into an everyday wear. 

Almost all of my sewing is what I call “outside wear”, mostly because it’s more fun. But also because my “home wear” consists of 15+ year old t-shirts that aren’t fun but are still very much intact and I can’t bring myself to get rid of them. 

Last year, however, I made a few Love Notions La Bella Donnas that I wear at home and love. I feel so much better and even dressed up when wearing them, as opposed to my old t-shirts. I wanted to make some more items to add to my rotation that were fuss free aka no ironing. But I also REALLY wanted to make the new Love Notions pattern – Ballad Blouse.

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The problem is that the Ballad is for wovens… and I like wearing knit fabric most days. But no matter. I just made it in a knit! I know, shouldn’t breaking rules like that. But I am a rebel 🤷🏻‍♀️ There are a few points to consider when switching fabric like that, that I’ll show you below. I also have some tips on making the blouse regardless of fabric type, so keep reading.

Knit fabric stretches

Knit fabric stretches, which means you can usually decrease in size if the original pattern is for wovens. But you should always check the ease and measurements. In this case, I didn’t change anything. Medium bust and graded to large at waist. 

Knit fabric droops if not stable enough.

You need to stabilize it as much as you can. I used twill tape on shoulder seams, like always, and also at the back yoke seam. Below are the steps where I added twill tape.

I’m not sure if it was the fact I didn’t make my usual armsyce adjustments or if it was the fabric, but the armsyce was super big and I had to bring it in by 2″.

Button placket

It’s VERY important to reinforce the placket with interfacing of some sort. It would be less than ideal to have sagging buttons. But the interfacing shouldn’t be TOO much heavier than the fabric otherwise it will pull down the blouse.

Shirring in a continuous line

This tip works all fabrics. Instead of cutting the elastic and thread after every row stitched, with the needle down, turn the fabric around. Then lift up the presser foot and scoot the fabric over to where the next row starts and keep going. 

Aligning shirring to front

I had some trouble lining up the shirring piece to the front bodice pieces. I got through it by marking the half way and quarter points on both front bodice and shirring piece with pins and then lining up the pins together. Just like you would a neckband. Then stretch as you sew.

Hemming

Use a serger to overlock the hem once, and turn it over and sew.

Blouse Details

• Medium up until waist, graded to a large to the hips
• Added 1/2″ of height at the side seam hem
• Removed 2″ from bodice side seams at armsyce
• Removed 2″ from sleeve side seams at armsyce – to match above modification
• Bishop sleeves, removed 4″ in length

Aren’t these sleeves so comfy?!

I hope you found these tips helpful! And try being a fabric rebel too. So make sure to get the new Ballad Blouse while it is on sale and make some more everyday wear!

P.S. Using wovens for a knit pattern is much more complex. So if you try that, make sure you understand ease and drafting a bit more.

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