Sabrina Slim Pants

Four years ago, a new mom with a six month old, was looking for a way to bring some quick accomplishments in her life. Not being able to leave the house, she turned to the internet and sewing. PatternReview introduced her to her indie pattern and most definitely her first pants. 👖

They were the Love Notions Sabrina Slims. They looked good! They felt good! …. Until I sat down, or when nature called…

New to the fabrics and patterns arena, I used a minimally stretchy woven to make them. I wore them a handful of times, when I knew I would not be sitting down for long. And then, they went into the donation bin.

Fast forward to a couple weeks ago when Tami announced she was redoing the Sabrina Slims with her new block and extended sizing. I knew I needed to try them again so I volunteered for the testing, and am I glad I did!

The pattern

Slim fitting pants with elastic waistband. There are a ton of options – front pockets; back welt or patch pockets; seam detailing (view B); regular hem vs zipper or split hem at ankle. There is also the ability to make these maternity with an over belly waistband.

The good news is, if you already paid for it from Love Notions website, you will see an updated version in your account. Check the top of the page for a coupon code for 10% off your purchase.

In my opinion, this is such a bargain for all the knowledge you are getting, because, not only are you getting a pattern with both print at home and A0 copy shop layouts, but ALSO a fitting guide workbook!

This workbook is a gem of information to help you diagnose any fit challenges you may encounter. There are drawings with what your pants might look like, wrinkles and all; and what to do to address them. Some changes can be made right into the muslin.

And if that wasn’t enough, Tami has added a projector pattern file, for those of you getting into the new thing of projection sewing!

Pattern Sizes: Tami is working through all her original patterns and updated them with increased size range. All extended patterns go from size 0-32. Hips 34.5″-59.5″.

My thoughts on the pattern: Style and comfort is key with these Sabrina Slims, perfect for lounging in a dressed up way. The slim legs are not legging tight, but are just as comfortable. Like secret pajamas, the way pants should be. Being a dress person, I usually peel out of my pants as soon I get home. But I wore these without realizing I wasn’t in my sweats. That’s truly a plus for me!

The modifications

It took making 3 pants to figure out all the fit challenges I had. So if you dive into it, don’t get frustrated that it isn’t looking good. Use the workbook and address one wrinkle at a time. Also, remember, you need some wrinkles if you want to be able to move around, especially if you are using stretch wovens.

First test told me about front and back rise changes, along with round pubis and flat seat adjustments.

Before making the second test, I held the paper pattern to myself to see if the hip and knee markings were accurate. This time around, it was a much better fit. But there were diagonal wrinkles that I thought were length issues.

So I removed the height update I had made. The fitting workbook showed me that my legs are not straight, rather my knees are bent inward. I didn’t want to believe it and ignored the advice before cutting pair no 3.

I was sooo certain that this 3rd pair was going to be perfect. But when I tried it on, I was unhappy, there were even MORE wrinkles.

I went back to pair no. 2. After pinching up the side seams, I could see the wrinkles go away. Solidifying that I truly do have knocked knees. For a quick fix, I took out the waist band and graded out 1.5″ of height from both side seams, and it looked MUCH better!

I normally would not be showing the not so flattering muslin pictures, but in attempt to encourage you, keep trying with your muslins! Take pictures and figure out the wrinkles. It’s well worth it.

To make all these adjustments easily, I cut every thing with a 5/8″ seam allowance, instead of the intended 3/8″.

Final modifications:

Front pant leg

• Reduced rise by 4.5″
• Added 1 7/8″ in between thigh and knee
• Remeasured the inseam with the changes and cut the hem line at the new 29″ line.
• Drastic round pubis adjustment
• Knocked knee adjustment

Front pocket pieces

• Made the same changes as front pocket pieces
• Added 0.5″ to bottom of pocket bag to compensate for rise reduction
• Removed 0.5″ from center front fold (reduce visibility of pocket bag) – this removed a total of 1″

Back pant leg

• Reduced the side seam to match the front hip markings (kind of like an inverse swayback) using slash and overlap method
• Reduced rise by 1.5″ at center back
• Added 1 7/8″ in between thigh and knee
• Cut the hem line at the new 29″ line.
• Flat seat adjustment Knocked knee adjustment

The fabric

I saw that I had this black and grey stretch fabric in my fabric library, with 25% stretch. It was a bit thicker and very soft. But I had no idea what material it was or even where I got it from. I probably bought it to make the original Sabrina Slims but never got around to it. 🤷🏻‍♀️ After doing a burn test, I conclude is a polyester of some sort. My other two tests were stretch twill and stretch corduroy. The twill didn’t work out but I was able to fix up the corduroy.

customization

Embroidery

My second one, I decided to add pack pockets and some embroidery both on the pocket as well as the inside of the waistband.

conclusion

Would I sew it again? Would I recommend it to others?
Yes, yes, yes! Especially with the fitting workbook, you will have great fitting pants in no time! Grab Love Notions Sabrina Slims while it’s on sale for $9 – until Feb 10, 2020!

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